Juneau And Seattle, Here I Come!

It is again time for me to pack my suitcase. In a few days I will begin a trek to Juneau, Alaska and Seattle, Washington. I will visit Juneau first and then will spend time in Seattle. Of course, there are many more sites I'd like to visit in these two cities than I will have time for. But I will pack as much as I possibly can into a short time. And soon I will be in a rainforest. You read that correctly. There is rainforest in Alaska that includes tall stands of spruce, hemlock and cedar trees with a forest floor covered with mosses, wild flowers and many types of berries. Juneau is where the mountains meet the sea amid 17 million acres of Tongass National Forest and a 1,000-square-mile ice field. Also, did you know that you cannot drive to Juneau? You must access it by boat/ship or airplane. Seattle is south of Juneau in the state of Washington where you can find another rainforest--the Quinault Rainforest. Home to grunge music and known for its coffee, Seattle was the home of Jimi Hendrix and Kurt Cobain. And, according to one site I read, it is the most educated city in the United States with the highest percentage of college graduates. Why do you think this is? What industries in Seattle require highly educated people? Hint: Think Bill Gates.

What comes to mind when you think of Juneau and Seattle? What do you already know about these two places? What do you *think* you know? Stay tuned to find out more ...

Aloha for Now

Sadly, my Hawaiian adventure has come to an end. But I'll be back in May when I visit Juneau, Alaska and Seattle, Washington. What do you think I'll visit there?

Pearl Harbor: The Alpha and Omega of U.S. Involvement in World War II

He caught my eye as he shuffled along bent double over his cane hearing aids in each ear. He stopped, looked up, and began to cry. "I'm sorry. I can't help it," he said in a rasping voice. "I haven't been been back here in 70 years. It's just so hard to remember." As he cried, the old man's daughter hugged him and said, "It's all right, Dad." Those of us within earshot stopped in our tracks knowing we were in the presence of someone great. This old man is one of the few surviving military men who lived through the attack on Pearl Harbor and is still here to tell about it. We were standing on the Arizona Memorial, pictured above. I was overcome with emotion as I listened to the old man and realized what he had lived through. Then I saw the wall with the names of the 1,117 sailors now entombed in the USS Arizona, a battleship left where it sank on December 7, 1941 when the Japanese attacked Pearl Harbor. The Arizona Memorial is built over the top of it. As I peered into the oily water, I realized I was standing above a cemetery of sorts. It was a very sobering moment.

Remains of the battleship Arizona, now the tomb of 1,117 sailors.

Pearl Harbor got its name from the Hawaiians who called it "waters of pearl" because oysters containing pearls could be harvested in the harbor. It was believed to be the home of the shark goddess, Kaʻahupahau, and her brother  Kahiʻuka. By the late 1800s, the United States wanted to have a presence in the Pacific Ocean, and in 1887, the United States Senate gave the Navy permission to lease Pearl Harbor and establish a naval base. The harbor was shallow so the navy dredged it in order that large ships could be docked there. When the Japanese invaded China in the 1930s, concerns arose as to their intentions. As a result, the United States expanded its military operations in Pearl Harbor. Prior to World War II in addition to the naval presence, there were also army and air bases on the island. By having a military presence in the Pacific, it was believed that the western coast of the United States would be protected from attack.

Early Sunday morning, December 7, 1941, things were quiet on Pearl Harbor.  Radar was new to the military and one of the radar operators saw a large fleet of aircraft headed for the island. He quickly notified his superior who said not to worry, they were U.S. airplanes that were expected. Sadly, this was not the case. As the Japanese headed for their attack on Pearl Harbor, there were 96 U.S. war ships anchored and 224 airplanes parked wing tip to wing tip because of a fear of local sabotage. In the first wave of the attack, there were 183 Japanese airplanes. About an hour later another 167 Japanese planes arrived. Because the American planes were not ready for take-off, only 31 were able to become airborne. And of the 350 Japanese aircraft, only 29 were shot down. By the end of the attack, about 2,400 Americans were dead with another 1,200 wounded. The next day, President Franklin Roosevelt asked Congress to declare war on Japan. (The text of his speech can be found at the end of this blog entry.) To this day Americans speak of December 7, 1941 as a date which lives in infamy.

The anchor recovered from the USS Arizona

A direct hit on the USS Arizona resulted in an enormous explosion that was so powerful it threw the anchor (shown above) more than 200 feet into the harbor. The anchor itself weighs 19,500 pounds and each link of the chain attached to it weighs 100 pounds. Imagine the force required to move something that heavy more than 200 feet!

The wreckage of the USS Arizona

You can see oil on the water in the photo above. It is leaking from the remains of the Arizona all these 70 years since the attack. It is becoming an environmental problem. No one knows how much fuel is still inside. The situation is being monitored but no decisions have been made about how to address the problem.

The Arizona Memorial--there are 7 viewing ports on each side of the memorial and seven above. What is 7 + 7 + 7 and why is this important? It represents a 21 gun salute, a military practice used to honor the dead.

This wall contains a listing of everyone who died on the USS Arizona in the Pearl Harbor attack. When you see that many names all at once, it makes you realize what a huge sacrifice these men made. 

USS Missouri Battleship now permanently based in Pearl Harbor

While Europe had been involved in World War II since 1939, the United States did not enter the war until after the attack on Pearl Harbor. Part of the Allied Forces, the U.S. fought in both the European Theater and the Pacific Theater. War in Europe ended May 8, 1945 when Germany surrendered. War against Japan continued until the atomic bombs were dropped on Hiroshima and Nagasaki in August of 1945. Japan admitted defeat and agreed to an unconditional surrender. That means no ifs, ands, or buts. The formal surrender ceremony took place on September 2, 1945 on the USS Missouri in Tokyo Bay (Japan). For security purposes there were 270 war ships in Tokyo Bay and 1000 US aircraft nearby. General Douglas MacArthur served as Master of Ceremony while Admirals Halsey and Nimitz signed the surrender documents for the United States. The Japanese signed, too. The entire ceremony lasted only 23 minutes. World War II was finally ended. It is estimated that about 60,000,000 people lost their lives in the six years of fighting. What an enormous loss.

This plaque set into the deck of the USS Missouri commemorates the surrender ceremony.

Copies of the surrender documents are kept in a case on the USS Missouri.

There is interesting information on this plaque that is affixed to the USS Missouri. Click on the photograph to enlarge it so that you can read what it says.

President Franklin Roosevelt's Speech, December 8, 1941

          Yesterday, December 7, 1941--a date which will live in infamy--the United States of America was suddenly and deliberately attacked by naval and air forces of the Empire of Japan.

          The United States was at peace with that nation and, at the solicitation of Japan, was still in conversation with its Government and its Emperor looking toward the maintenance of peace in the Pacific. Indeed, one hour after Japanese air squadrons had commenced bombing in Oahu, the Japanese Ambassador to the United States and his colleague delivered to the Secretary of State a formal reply to a recent American message. While this reply stated that it seemed useless to continue the existing diplomatic negotiations, it contained no threat or hint of war or armed attack.

          It will be recorded that the distance of Hawaii from Japan makes it obvious that the attack was deliberately planned many days or even weeks ago. During the intervening time the Japanese Government has deliberately sought to deceive the United States by false statements and expressions of hope for continued peace.

          The attack yesterday on the Hawaiian Islands has caused severe damage to American naval and military forces. Very many American lives have been lost. In addition American ships have been reported torpedoed on the high seas between San Francisco and Honolulu.

          Yesterday the Japanese Government also launched an attack against Malaya. Last night Japanese forces attacked Hong Kong. Last night Japanese forces attacked Guam. Last night Japanese forces attacked the Philippine Islands. Last night the Japanese attacked Wake Island. This morning the Japanese attacked Midway Island.

          Japan has, therefore, undertaken a surprise offensive extending throughout the Pacific area. The facts of yesterday speak for themselves. The people of the United States have already formed their opinions and well understand the implications to the very life and safety of our nation.

          As Commander-in-Chief of the Army and Navy, I have directed that all measures be taken for our defense.

          Always will we remember the character of the onslaught against us. No matter how long it may take us to overcome this premeditated invasion, the American people in their righteous might will win through to absolute victory.

          I believe I interpret the will of the Congress and of the people when I assert that we will not only defend ourselves to the uttermost but will make very certain that this form of treachery shall never endanger us again.

          Hostilities exist. There is no blinking at the fact that our people, our territory and our interests are in grave danger.

          With confidence in our armed forces--with the unbounded determination of our people--we will gain the inevitable triumph--so help us God.

          I ask that the Congress declare that since the unprovoked and dastardly attack by Japan on Sunday, December seventh, a state of war has existed between the United States and the Japanese Empire."

Polynesian Cultures

What do you think these men are doing? Did you guess that they are twirling flaming batons so fast that the two burning ends look like circles? Who do you think used this as part of their ceremonies or celebrations? The answer is the people of Fiji, one of the Polynesian cultures.

I spent an entire day and evening learning about various Polynesian cultures. Do you know where Polynesia is and what countries are part of it? Polynesia includes a large grouping of islands located in the central and southern Pacific Ocean. Polynesians are the people who inhabit these islands. Their cultures are similar in many ways. While the languages are different, like Hawaiian, vowel sounds are prominent. These island nations also share many belief systems. Until the arrival of missionaries in the mid 1800s, the Polynesians practiced their beliefs and way of life for a multitude of generations. They lived off the land and ocean using what was readily available for clothing, shelter, and food. According to one of the tour guides, Polynesians had no cloth until it was introduced to them by the missionaries. Prior to that, their clothing was woven from native grasses and other foliage. There were also no written languages among the Polynesians until the arrival of the missionaries. And it was the missionaries who taught Polynesians how to sing in harmony.

Many of the Polynesian island groups eventually became protectorates or territories of other countries. As an example, New Zealand, once a British colony, is now an independent country that is part of the British Commonwealth. Tonga--the only Polynesian country to still have a king--is a British protectorate. And today part of Samoa is called American Samoa because it is a territory of the United States, as Hawaii once was.

At the Polynesian Cultural Center, the focus is on how various groups of Polynesians lived before they were visited by Europeans. Included in the center's historic interpretations are the cultures of Fiji, Tonga, Hawaii, Samoa, Tahiti, Raponui (Easter Island), Marquesas, and Aotearoa (Maori of New Zealand). All day as I listened to the rhythmic sounds of Polynesian languages, I became vividly aware of how difficult it is for children from other countries who come to American schools and do not understand English. It can be very tiring and frustrating to listen for hours and not understand what is being said. My guide, of course, spoke English, but part  of the presentations, as well as all of the songs, were in native tongues to add authenticity. I learned an enormous amount and now am eager to visit Tonga, Fiji, Samoa, and other Polynesian nations. 

Patriarchal societies with men serving as leaders, there were clearly defined gender roles. It was common in Polynesian cultures for men to do all of the food preparation with women responsible for weaving. Food included what could be gotten from the ocean as well as what grew naturally--tropical fruits and vegetables. Elders were highly respected and often taught children cultural traditions. There were cultural differences, of course. As an example, Fijians practiced human sacrifice. And in mountainous regions of Fiji where there was no access to food from the ocean and very little available for hunting, during times of famine some tribes resorted to cannibalism.

This is one of only three Fijian temples in the world. This one was constructed on Fiji in 1973 and moved by ship to the Polynesian Cultural Center.

In Samoa, it was traditional for men to shinny up a coconut palm tree to harvest the fruit.

Most all cultures have dances. What kind do you like to do? This Tahitian man demonstrates how to do a traditional dance.

A Hawaiian presentation

Aotearoa (New Zealand) demonstrating a native dance. The next several photos show other Polynesian cultures doing traditional dances.

Hawaii

Tonga

Tahiti

A Polynesian interpreter demonstrates a traditional drum.

Drumming and rhythms featured prominently in Polynesian cultures.

A traditional Hawaiian hut

The interior of a traditional Hawaiian hut. The children slept on mats on the floor. Adults slept on the bed. The higher off the ground the bed was, the greater the status of the person who slept in it.

A Fijian chief's hut. Only the chief was allowed to sleep on the huge bed. His wives slept on mats on the floor. The hut had four doors, one facing each direction. Only the chief could use the door that faced west; it was guarded 24 hours a day, seven days a week. Because the sun was associated with power, his bed near the west door meant he had the last of the sun's power for the day. The doors facing north and south could be used by the chief's family and other important individuals. The east-facing door was used by other visitors.

Yes, our beautiful state of Hawaii has a rich Polynesian cultural heritage. In fact, Hawaii is the only American state to have ever been ruled by a king, and the only royal palace in our entire country is located right here on the island of Oahu. After the Spanish-American war in 1898, Hawaii became a United States Territory. Then, in 1959, it became our 50th state. That's why the popular television show is called Hawaii Five-O. So, for what reasons do think Hawaii became a state? Why did our government think it wise to grant statehood to a group of islands way out in the Pacific Ocean?

It is commonplace on the Polynesian islands for people to call one another cousin. Many times since I've been here I have been called cousin or family. It immediately reminded me of the old Sly and the Family Stone song, "We are Family." Part of the lyrics tell us, "We got to live together. I am no better and neither are you. We are the same whatever we do." How true this is. No matter what other cultures you learn about, you can readily find things in common with your own culture. We ARE family.

Honolulu's Island--Oahu

A lovely view from up high. Hawaii is well known for both mountains and beaches.

I believe you are never to old to learn new things, and today I learned that I have been pronouncing Honolulu wrong. Like most people who live on the mainland, as the Hawaiians call the rest of the USA, I have been pronouncing the first syllable as Ha, but it is actually Ho with a long o sound. The second syllable also has a long o sound and is pronounced just like our word, no. Ho no lu lu. Another thing I learned is that the Hawaiian language has only 12 letters and that includes the five vowels. You probably are wondering what the 12 letters are. Every word in Hawaiian contains only these letters: a, e, i, o, u, l, k, m, w, p, h, and n. Today I saw the name of a building that had the letter "a" three times in a row. After each "a" was an accent mark. The letter "w" is pronounced like a "v" when in the middle of a word, so I've also been mispronouncing Hawaii. In reality, the correct pronunciation is Ha-Va-ii, and there is a diacritical mark that is common to see here on Oahu, but not evident in the continental USA. There are many native speakers here and most signs reflect the native culture though many are also written underneath in Japanese and Korean because so many tourists come here from those countries.   

The Hawaii state flower, the yellow hibiscus

Lush is a good word to describe Honolulu and the surrounding area. Tropical foliage abounds. Palm trees and beautiful flowers are everywhere. The state flower is the yellow hibiscus, and I saw a profusion of them today. Other tropical flowers that caught my eye are these:

 

 

 

Of course Honolulu is well known for its beaches, but it is also surrounded by  mountains. Formed from the eruptions of volcanoes, several Hawaiian islands continue to grow larger as there are many volcanoes that are still active. Surrounding Honolulu, though, there are seven or eight dormant volcanoes. These volcanoes are not extinct meaning they can erupt again. However, none of the volcanoes on Oahu has erupted in many thousands of years. The most famous volcanic crater on Oahu is Diamond Head named by early European explorers who mistook olivine and selenite crystals for diamonds. There is one lake on the entire island. A native Hawaiian told me it is the biggest lake they have and also the smallest. Because this is a relatively small island with a lot of people, garbage becomes an issue. The Hawaiians have solved this problem in an interesting way. All garbage is incinerated and the waste heat is utilized to make electricity. Oahu's excellent public transportation system is called "The Bus". For $30 one can purchase a year-long pass, which will give access to any point on the island. There are three main highways on Oahu--H1, H2, and H3, but if you drive too far it quickly becomes

H₂O. It is a bit odd that Hawaii has an interstate system because there are no other states you can drive to from here. As the name implies, INTERstate means between states.

Lava is ubiquitous. Here is has been used to create a wall.

Some mountains have pointed tops.

Others have eroded into folds.

While there are no snakes native to Oahu, it was a bit surprising to find that chickens and pigs run around wild all over the island. It seemed they were everywhere. Humpback whales can readily be seen at Halona Blow Hole. I saw many water spouts from whales and a couple of tails as they thrashed about in the water. Huge turtles are often seen on Turtle Beach, but there weren't any out today. The black swan in the picture below is one of three I saw when I visited a Buddhist Temple. The main religion here is Catholicism with Buddhism and LDS tied for second place.

A pineapple growing. It is not yet big enough to be harvested.

The economy of Honolulu and the surrounding area is interesting. Tourism is the biggest money maker, but agriculture is also evident. Pineapples are a main crop. It is a labor intensive process because the pineapples must be planted and harvested by hand. There are no machines to do the work. Things are quite expensive here. In fact, Hawaii is one of the five most expensive places in the United States to live, yet the islands are in the lowest five when it comes to pay scale. The chief reason things in Hawaii are expensive is because 95% of everything on the island has been imported. Some Hawaiians work two or three jobs just to make ends meet. When cherries cost $12.00 a pound, one can readily see how difficult life can be.

At this time of the year the water is fairly calm with small waves. This little island is often seen in movies and television shows set in Hawaii. It is called the Chinaman's Hat.

Sports are important here. The Aloha Stadium holds 50,000 fans and is often home to the Pro Bowl. The Kahuku High School football team ranks in the top 25 nationally. That means of all the thousands of high schools in the United States, this small school on Oahu has one of the best teams in the country. Probably, though, Hawaii is best known for surfing, a sport that originated in the Pacific islands of Polynesia. (Hawaii is part of Polynesia.) An invitational surfing contest is held at Sunset Beach for the 25 best surfers in the world but only when the waves are at least 25 feet high. Not far from Sunset Beach are Wiamea Bay and Banzai Pipeline. Both are favorite surfing spots and also places where competitions are regularly held. The next time you see a surfing contest on TV, it probably is happening right here on Oahu.

At present the waves are not big enough for surfing competitions, but there are always surfers in the water trying the catch the next wave.

Aloha from Waikiki

America's fiftieth state is comprised of many islands. Honolulu, the capital of Hawaii, is located on the Island of Oahu, the third largest of all the islands. Only 600 square miles, Oahu is home to about one million people. The cultural heritage is rich, but sadly there are only 4,000 full blooded native Hawaiians here. By the year 2030, it is predicted that there will be none left. This is truly a multicultural paradise. As I wandered around in the 80 degree sunshine with flowers in full bloom, I lost count of how many different cultures I encountered. One thing I did notice is that there is a strong Japanese influence here. Many signs and menus are written in both English and Japanese.

My hotel is right on Waikiki Beach, just a few steps from the Pacific Ocean. As I walked along the shore, I kept wondering what this place must have been like 150 years ago when it was still in the hands of the native peoples. Of course there would have been no high rise buildings and no hotels. If Hawaii interests you, it is worth reading about its rich history.

From the beach behind my hotel, I saw this mountain as I looked to the left. If you look closely you can see quite many swimmers enjoying the warm weather and the salt water.

I went out on the beach several times today and no matter when I went for a stroll, the beach was filled with tourists like me enjoying the sun and surf.

Because of the warm weather, a lot of restaurants have outdoor seating.

I saw many tropical plants today and interesting flowers, but didn't take many pictures of them. I'll do that another day before I leave this tropical paradise.

Hawaii is known for its waves, though I didn't see too many today. That didn't stop the surfers who were out in droves hoping for a wave to catch. Surfing looks a lot easier than it is. I know because when I was a teenager, I tried to learn how. It takes more athletic prowess than I possess, and you must have good balance.

I took this picture because you can see a native double-hulled outrigger canoe in the background. This type of vessel was developed her in Hawaii, and many efforts are being made to ensure this tradition does not die out.

I couldn't visit Hawaii without having a traditional Hawaiian dinner. This is seafood lau lau, which is shrimp, scallops, salmon and spinach wrapped in a Luau leaf. Behind that are mashed potatoes with carrots, zucchini, and squash.

Here's another traditional meal. I noticed that quite a few of the native dishes are topped with a fried egg. This dish is called loco moco and is mahi mahi and opakapaka in lobster cream sauce.

When I passed the Subway Restaurant I knew I had to take a picture of the large menu posted outside. It is in Japanese, a common site here in Honolulu.

Honolulu is five hours earlier than Virginia meaning that when it is noon here, it is already 5:00 p.m. in the Commonwealth. Because of that, I am still a bit jet lagged, which is why I spent most of today just walking around seeing the sites within a mile of my hotel and also visiting the beach. Tomorrow my adventures begin. I'll take a full island tour. Then on Saturday I will visit the Polynesian Cultural Center and on Sunday I'll tour Pearl Harbor and visit the World War II memorials.

#50 Is Within My Reach

Honolulu, Hawaii

Next week at this time I will be on an airplane headed for Honolulu. For me this is an important trip, and perhaps not for the reason you might think. It is because once I set foot on Hawaiian soil, I will have visited every single state in the USA! Yes, Hawaii is my 50th state. I am excited to achieve this goal for many reasons. I wonder how many people can claim they have visited all 50 states. When I say I have visited 49 states, I do not mean just changing planes in an airport. I mean that I have spent time visiting ... finding out what makes the state unique ... shopping in the stores ... visiting historical and geographical locations. This is a fun quest, and while it does take many years, it is a worthwhile endeavor. Why don't you join me by making this your goal? There are many inexpensive ways to travel.

In thinking about and planning this trip to Honolulu, I began to reflect back to when Hawaii was not a state. I remember this well because when I was a young child, I began to collect postage stamps. I still have my stamps from Hawaii, prior to its becoming a state. Then, when I was in the fifth grade Hawaii became the 49th state. For a brief time our national flag looked like this:

Seven rows with seven stars made up the 49-star flag.

This flag was not used for very long because soon after Hawaii became a state, Alaska achieved statehood. While I have been to Juneau, Alaska before, I will be visiting it again--along with Seattle--in May. But for now, stay tuned. My daily blogs about Hawaii begin next week.